Hotel Playa Pesquero

This all-inclusive, a neighbor to the Blau Playa Pesquero, is wholly Cuban run (by Gaviota) and is Cuba's largest hotel, with a mammoth 912 rooms. The architecture and decor here play on a colonial theme, and an antique steam train and rolling stock on display add a touch of drama to the entrance. We love the airy lobby with its large koi pond. And the grounds, once sparse, have grown out and are well-maintained. Still, despite its relative youth – the hotel is barely five years old – it already shows plenty of signs of wear and tear, much of it due to poor design and construction.

The figure-eight pool (which doesn't look all too clean) is landscaped with palm-studded islands and has a swim-up bar. The entertainment here relies on the canned cabarets, but they are of high quality and performed by motivated staff. No prizes for the restaurants here, but at least you have six to choose from. Fitness buffs have a modicum of modern equipment in the air-conditioned gym, and there are tennis courts, even squash and archery, plus an assortment of watersports. A unique touch – a genuine Venetian gondola to whisk newlyweds around the lagoon.

Hotel Playa Costa Verde

Another huge beachfront all-inclusive hotel run by Cuba's Gaviota chain, this aims at singles, couples and families. We like the contemporary aesthetic and the fact that this resort seems well-managed, especially by Cuban standards.

The freeform pool here is like a vast lagoon and has palm-studded islands and a swim-up bar. Fortunately, most of the noisy activity such as volleyball takes place in a second pool. The resort also has a separate kid's pool and children's play center. It has four restaurants, including an open-air main buffet restaurant and a Japanese restaurant, and a favorite of ours is the ice cream bar. The nightly cabarets include Cuban themes but also play on Hollywood and similar themes, but you can practice your Latin dance moves at a disco.

The 480 air-conditioned accommodations (four handicap-equipped) are in 31 two-storey blocks, many of them quite a long way from the beach and public arenas (hence they're served by staff whizzing around on electric golf carts).