Hotel Paradisus Rio de Oro

The Spanish Sol Meliá chain's deluxe offering at Playa Esmeralda, west of Guardalavaca, is the best all-inclusive hotel in the eastern provinces. Edging up to talcum-fine sands that shelve into waters of Maxfield Parrish-like turquoise blues, it has a superb locale. The snorkeling is splendid. The resort is surrounded on three sides by woodland and a swampy lagoon, goof for birding. Families should look elsewhere, as this hotel is for adults only.

The difficulties of trying to operate so-called luxury hotels in Cuba is well known, but this all-suite resort lives up to its five-star billing. Start with the chilled champagne offered to arriving guests in the atrium lobby with koi pool. The buffets here surpass those in neighboring hotels, and the six specialty restaurants – including the Japanese option – usually don't disappoint. And your one-price-gets-all room rate includes such activities as archery, Hobi-Cats, and even horseback riding. Even the gym earns high marks for its modern, well-maintained equipment. Entertainment is a bit more varied than the usual canned cabarets, which are also offered.

Hotel Sol Rio de Luna & Mares Resort

A Spanish-run all-inclusive with 464 rooms overlooking gorgeous sands of Playa Esmeralda, this classy resort comprises two adjoining hotels that originated as separate Sol Meliá entities. The physical setting is superb, with bathtub-warm, gin-clear, reef-protected shallows, and tremendous snorkeling nearby. Nearby facilities include a pitch-and-putt golf course and horseback riding, and the tour desk offers a wide range of excursions. The management here has succeeded in motivating staff to a degree unusual in Cuba.

The huge freeform pool gets lively – perhaps too much for those guests who like peace and quiet. Cuisine is of a surprisingly high standard. For entertainment, guests get the usual run of nightly cabarets and twice-weekly, and there's live music in the lobby bar.

The Luna complex was closed for a total refurbishment in mid 2008. Newly refurbished last year, rooms in the Mares section are coloful, with Caribbean-themed decor and furnishings. The best rooms are those higher up, which offer views.